SUMMER RETREAT On the same stretch- but short of Malana - Naggar is another fascinating place. The erstwhile princely state of Kullu is said to have been established in the 1st or 2nd century and Naggar was its capital for 1,400 years. With hewn stones packed in a horizontal mesh of timber sleepers, the old castle is now a hotel. This medieval building was built by Raja Sidh Singh around 1460. Here vested the reins of Kullu's power till Raja Jagat Singh moved the capital lower down the valley in 1637. Yet Naggar remained the summer retreat of the ruling family. About 150 years ago, Raja Gyan Singh exchanged his ancestral seat for a rifle - and in time, perched high on a wooded slope that overlooks the Beas, the castle became a hotel. Apart from ancient temples and the possibility of wonderful treks, Naggar also houses a gallery of paintings and sculptures of Nicholas Roerich, a Russian emigre who left his homeland after the 1917 Revolution.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Kullu serves as the access point to numerous ancient temples and places off the beaten track. Within Kullu is the Raghunath temple. In the 17th century, Raja Jagat Singh committed an error. To atone, he sent for a statue of Lord Ram from Ayodhya. This temple was built to house the image. Lord Rama was proclaimed the 'true ruler'while the king and his descendants accepted the role of regents. The Bijii Mahadev temple is set on a spur that offers spectacular views. This temple is famous for its high staff that periodically draws lightning which shatters the Shivalinga and scorches the building. Using butter as an adhesive, the linga is carefully pieced together by the temple pundit. Notable temples around Kullu are Basheswar Mahadeva at Bajaura, Vaishno Devi, Devi Jagannath and the Vishnu temples.

IDEAL FOR FISHING Kaisdhar is a high alpine meadow fringed by cedar trees, and kasol is a delightful open glade by the banks of the river Paravati and is an excellent place for trout fishing. Mani Karan is 45 km deeper into the valley, and reveredby Hindus and Sikhs. It is also known for its hot sulphur springs. According to legend, a serpent stole Lord Shiva's consort, Paravati's earrings. Threatened by Shiva, he snorted out the jewels from under the earth, creating vents through which the water now bubbles.

REMAINS OF FORTShort of the Jalori pass, Shoja is 69 km from Kullu. With woods of tall silver fir and spruce, Shoja is a vantage point where views of the snow ranges and high meadows steadily unfold. Close to Shoja are the remains of Raghupur fort. Kullu has a wide variety of accommodation to choose from. Being lowerdown the valley, Kullu is warmer than Manali and in summer light woollens and cottons are suggested.

From Manali/Kullu you can return to Delhi by road or air.