The city is still famous for its cultivated manners and
refined urbane culture. It remains the home of light-classical North Indian
music and the Kathak school of dance. Each February, the two-week Lucknow
festival continues the traditions of music and dance made famous by the
Oudh court.
Lucknow is the principal Shi'ite Muslim centre in India
and the city celebrates holidays and festivals more common to Iran than
the other, mostly Sunni, Muslim communities.
Although
never an industrial centre—Kanpur, 79 kilometres (49 miles) to the southwest,
is the great factory town of Uttar Pradesh—Lucknow has traditionally produced
silver and bidri work (gun-metal inlaid with silver) and traded in copper,
brass and cotton. Lucknow is an important rail junction and has excellent
connections with most of northern India. The Charbagh Railway Station
in the south of the city is an impressive sight and a good place to begin
a tour of the city. The architecture reflects both Mughal and European
influences. The royal emblem of the nawabs, a pair of fish, still decorates
many of the buildings.
Unfortunately, many of the buildings in Lucknow are of
brick and some have deteriorated badly. In the city centre, the
Aminabad Market with its narrow alleys, originally run by women for female
customers, is now one of the main shopping areas. The more modem Hazaratganj
area has wider streets and larger shops.
The extraordinary complex of buildings two kilometres
(1.5 miles) east of Hazaratganj which now houses La Martiniere School
was originally known as Costantia. It was built as the country home of
a French soldier, Major-General Claude Martin, who made a fortune as a
trader. The general died in 1800 before it was completed, but he left
sufficient funds to finish the buildings and endow the school. Constantia
is a whimsical mixture of styles incorporating gargoyles and other Gothic
details with Corinthian columns. The roof is crowned with a strange collection
of statues.
The nearby gardens at Banarsi Bagh contain the zoo and
the State Museum (open 10 am-4.30 pm, closed Mondays). Established in
1863, the museum contains an important collection of sculpture, mostly
from Mathura. The extensive collection of Kushan, Gupta and Mughal coins
can be seen by appointment.
The British Residency, built in 1800 and made famous
during the Great Mutiny, remains in the state of ruin it was left in at
the time of its final relief in November 1857, after two sieges lasting
87 and 53 days left more than 2,000 people dead. The broken walls are
still pockmarked with cannonball and shot, and the old buildings are surrounded
by well-kept lawns and gardens which at the time of the siege were the
site of narrow lanes and streets. The small, dusty museum is open from
9 am to 5.30 pm. The ruined church and cemetery, containing the graves
of those who died during the siege, are nearby.
A kilometre or so west of the Residency are the two fascinating
Imambaras. In 1784, Asaf-ud-Daula built the Bara Imambara. This
great vaulted hall (open 6 am - 5 pm), reputedly the largest room in the
world, is 50 metres (165 feet) long and its 15-metre (50-foot) high roof
is unsupported by pillars. The hall, the great mosque and its two supporting
minarets were built as part of a famine relief project. Most of the underground
passages are now blocked, but an external stairway leads to the labyrinth
on the upper floor known as the Bhulbhulaiya. In front of the Imambara
is an impressive gateway, Rumi Darwaza, built in imitation of Istanbul's
Sublime Porte. Beyond the gateway, the Husainabad Imambara stands in a
large quadrangle in front of an inlaid marble tank. The main building
(open 6 am-5 pm) contains the silver throne of the nawabs. Opposite the
Husainabad Imambara is the Baradari (summer house) built by Ali Shah and
now housing a small portrait gallery (open 8 am-5 pm). The Jami Masjid
to the west of the Imambara is one of the few in India closed to non-Muslims.