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MANDAWA, MUKANDGARH, NAWALGARH, DUNDLOD, JHUNJHUNU, BISSAU  

Mandawa

Part of Shekhavati, a region once on the silk route on China, its inhabitants the rich merchants lavishly decorated their houses with paintings on religious, historical, folk and social themes and with the coming of the British, lot of the paintings are found with European influence too; so much so that today it forms an open air art gallery. Mandawa Castle, founded in mid 18th century, has interesting murals has been converted into a hotel. It offers some excellent views from its ramparts. Other interesting towns are Fatehpur and Dunlod.

Mukandgarh

Mukandgarh FortFounded in the mid 18th century by Raja Mukand Singh, Mukandgarh today boasts of the finest frescoes of the Shekhawati Region which is commonly called the "Open Air Art Gallery of Rajasthan".

Mukandgarh has a good handicrafts market and the Jhunjhunwala (1859) haveli with Krishna stories and Sukhdev (1880). The 18th century fort is now a hotel.

Nawalgarh

8 km from Mandawa. Founded in 1737 by Thakur Nawal Singh. The town has a colourful bazar and two forts (c 1730); the BalaKila has a kiosk with beautiful ceiling paintings. It also has the Roop Nivas Palace (now a hotel) and numerous fine havelis worth visiting, particularly those of Chhauchhariyas (1875), Poddars (1920, now a-school), Bhagats, Dangaiches and Jandgid (1922). There are also interesting temples in town including Ganga Mai near Nansa Gate.

Dundlod

west of Nawalgarh, has the best murals in the 1750 fort/castle surrounded by a moat (now a Dera Heritage Hotel). You enter the fort by the Suraj Pol and proceed through the BichIa Darwaza and Uttar Pol before arriving at the courtyard. Steps lead up to the magestic Diwan Khana furnished with period furniture, portraits and hangings; there is a library with a collection of rare books of Indian history and the duchatta above which allowed the ladies in purdah to watch court ceremonies, unobserved. Ask for the key to the painted family chhattris nearby. The Goenka haveli near the fort has three painted courtyards, and the Satyanarayan temple, religious paintings. The interesting 100m deep step well now has an electric pump. Mukundgarh is the nearest station; jeeps and taxis available.

Jhunjhunu

Jhunjhunun or Jhunjhunu (25 km east of Mandawa), was a stronghold of the Kayamkhani Nawabs until defeated by the Hindu Sardu Singh in 1730. Worth seeing are the Modi (1896), Tibriwala (1883) and the Muslim Nuniddin Farooqi havelis devoid of figures, the Chile (6) Haveli complex, Khetri Mahal (1760) and Bihariji temple (1776).The Rani Sati temple commemorates Narayana Devi who is believed to have become a sati; her stone is venerated by many of the wealthy bania community and an annual Marwari fair is held. In 1988 women's groups organized demonstrations against the fair since it was seen as glorifying the practice olsau. Since 1947, 29 cases of suttee have been recorded in the Sikar and its two .neighbouring districts; the latest, in 1987 in Deorah village caused a national uproar.

Bissau

Founded 1746, has painted chhattris and a fort. The Sigtia, Khernka, Tibriwala and Kedia havelis are worth visiting. Mahansar (founded mid-18th;centnry) S of Bissau, has the Poddar haveli o fSon-Chand, the Rama Temple (ask for the key to the Golden Room; no photography) and the large Raghunath Temple with some of the finest paintings of the region.


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Last modified: 26/02/2004