Every year, for centuries now, the people of Kerala welcome the return of a vanquished king. Mahabali.

The old wive's tale recounts wistfully the reign of  Mahabali.  Prosperous days. Peaceful times.  A righteous and just king.  Benevolent too.  Loved and worshipped by his people.

Enough to grip even the gods in high heaven with envy.  So goes the tale.

The gods plotted.  To end Mahabali's reign they send Lord Vishnu to earth.  In the form of a dwarfish Brahmin.  Who appeared at the court of the king with a deceivingly low request.  Three paces of land.  To which the king, in all his charity, readily agreed.

Now the god shed his human form. and assumed celestial proportions.  His first step covered all earth.  And his next, the heavens. The promise of the third appeared broken.

Never one to go back on his word, Mahabali went down on one knee.  Proffering his head for the third step.

Before being trampled down to the netherworld, the king's sole wish was benignly granted by Lord Vishnu.  To visit his land and people once every year.

Fact and fable merge as Kerala grooms up for the royal return.  Year after year.  With a festival called Onam.  Now gift-wrapped for you as The Grand Onam Week Celebrations.

The Grand Onam Week Celebrations in Kerala. 

When we showcase all that's the best of Kerala specially for the visitor.  Just second nature to us during the traditional festival of Onam.

Celebrated with grand carnivals.  Exhilarating boat races.  Dances, music and lavish feasts.  Fun fairs and great bargains.  Parades, games and pageantry.  Everything the way it's been merrily done with hundreds of years.  With perhaps one charming difference this time.

You.

Catch the nail-biting action of this unique water-sport staged on the famed backwaters of kerala.  Where its legendary boats take each other on - powered by sheer muscle and a tradional village rivalry.  That take you back to the ancient naval warfare which every one of these watercraft traces its orgin to.  Like the illustrious Snake Boats ("Chundans") - once used as battleships.  So called for their long hulls and stand-up sterns that bring to mind the raised hood of a cobra.  Taking in a hundred oarsmen apiece.  Or the "Odis" - small, lighting-fast raiding craft.  The "Veppus" - which served as cook-boats for the warriors.  And the "Churulans" - named after their elaborately curled prows and sterns.

All pitted against their own kind.  With ebony-bodied rowers.  In a tussle for glory.  And in a breathtaking show of strength and rhythm.  Shouting, singing and plowing through.  Cheered on by the thousands who throng the banks.  Unrivaled drama.  Fever - high emotions.

A truly memorable spectacle for any visitor.

Three of the Great Boat Races are staged during the Onam Week Celebrations :

1. the Karuvatta Boat Race (3 kms from the nearest railhead - Harripad),

2. the Payippad Boat Race (2 kms from the nearest railhead - Harripad), and

3. the widely known Aranmula Boat Race (7 kms for the nearest railhead - Chengannur.)

The traditional feast of Kerala - called Sadya - is dished up readily during Onam.  In every eatery, restaurant or home.  Exotically served on a clean fresh banana leaf, this multi-course extravaganza comprise mainly rice and countless curries and dishes.  All delectably vegetarian.  Most of them coconut-based.  With various tongue-tingling pickles adding that touch of spice.  And topped by large helpings of "payasams" - a sweet milky porridge served with dried fruits and nuts.  Which will leave you asking for more.

The capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (formerly Trivandurm) especially, wears a Mardi Gras look.

Traffic on the main avenues make way for an endless river of people who take to the streets and revel.  Gleefully entertained by special shows of dance, folk arts, music, fireworks and martial arts at special centres.  Every wayside structures is illuminated making for a splendid spectacle after dark.  A spectacular pageantry brings up the finale on the last day of the celebrations.

At the stately entrance to the Kanakakunnu Palace (Trivandrum), music hardly stops.  'Chendamelam'  - a fascinating percussions ensemble dovetails 'Panchavadyam' - five primary sounds orchestrated from drums, horns and cymbals.  All to the majestic backdrop of an array of bejewelled tuskers.

This is a time when Kerala's timeless art forms come alive around you.

When you get mesmerized by the sound and fury of "Kathakali" - a wondrous form of dance-drama evolved through 400 years.  With an intricate set of gestures and mimes.

Or when you give into the sensuous sashays of Mohiniyattam - literally, "the dance of the seductress" - performed by nubile young women in white and gold.

Or amaze yourself with "Theyyam" - a temple dance with aboriginal roots and psychedelic costumes.

There are even charming dances performed specifically for Onam. "Kaikottikkali", "koodiyattom", "Thumbithullal" and "Pulikkali" for instance.  Done by a gay and merry crowd gathered in the frontyards of decorated homes.

Watch them sing and lilt and play.

Or join in if you wish.

Back